Dudhsagar Falls - A Monsoon trek on Railway Track!

Dudhsagar falls. We were there in August in monsoon. We thoroughly enjoyed it. The falls is at its best in monsoon. Go now. (Incidentally this is the same falls shown in Shah Rukh Khan's blockbuster Chennai Express!) 

Who doesn't remember this lovely rhyme? 

Rain, rain, go away

Come again another day

Little Arthur wants to play

We did not want the rain to go away. We in fact wanted to trek in the rain. Trek to Dudhsagar in monsoon was always on our bucket list. Honestly speaking, trekking in rain is no fun. Then you don't have a choice if you want to visit the falls when rain is pouring in the mountains and the falls is at its magnificent best. We decided to do it.

Our initial plan was to drive up to Hubli, stay overnight, drive next morning to Castle Rock - the start point of the trek - and return back to Hubli by evening after trekking to waterfalls. However this time around, we decided to go by train. Getting reservations at last minute on Indian trains is always difficult. We wanted to try our luck through Indian Railways (IRCTC) website. You know how notorious IRCTC is. Browsing early in the morning, we were lucky and could get the tickets in Tatkal after couple of tries. The last time we travelled in a train was way back in 2000.

Trains are always fun if you don't mind smelly platforms, not so clean coaches..........and of course the loos. We booked in three tier AC coach. Chennai - Vasco express which passes through Bangalore is not an "Important or Star" train for railways. It is more of a fast passenger than an express. Thus, the coach was not new, one which would possibly be discarded in couple years. As we entered our coupe and sat on the seat, we were greeted by the tiny little creatures commonly known as cockroach! Thankfully they were small ones moving around. We smashed few, shoved the luggage under the seat and settle down when a couple walks in. Our co-passengers in the same coupe.

The best part of a train journey in India is human watching. It is an amazing world out there. Our co-passengers - middle aged jeweller and his wife from Bangalore - were going to Goa for a "relaxed" holiday. For our man, Goa was the ultimate destination. He goes there every year to just chill out. He does not want to go anywhere else and Goa is the full and final destination for him. But the couple were interesting and well informed. They were surprised to hear that we were travelling in the train to get down at Castle Rock for a trek to Dudhsagar falls. They had seen the waterfalls many times on their journeys to Goa but had never heard of people trekking to waterfalls. The man was curious.

"How many KMs is the trek"

"14 Kms"

"Are you sure you guys want to do this in rain"

"Yes, we have come prepared." I show him our trekking shoes, rain cape, backpack etc.

"How long will it take to cover the distance?"

"Five hours"

"You guys are going to walk for five hours in this rain???"

"Yes, that is the fun"

He shakes his head. The wife gives a blank look.

After the checking of tickets by TC, we bid good night. Not before checking for couple of cockroaches and smashing them.

I normally get up early while travelling in train. It was 6AM and the train had just arrived in Hubli. A boy was moving around briskly on the platform selling hot tea. Behind him was another selling news paper. A chai in one hand and news paper in the other is always good day to start. After a halt of half hour, the train starts and the journey from now till Castle Rock is lovely. I had done this train journey many times while being posted in Goa in my earlier avatar in Army. I always looked forward to this stretch when i used to stand near the door and enjoy the beautiful vistas. Today was no different. The rains had turned the landscape into lively green. The streams were full and flowing. Fortunately it was not raining. Cool breeze was caressing my face as i stood near the door holding onto the rails. Brinda joined me at the door. We wished the weather would hold good till we completed the trek. 

It is all green between Dharwad and Castle Rock

At Londa, we get the pre-ordered breakfast - order taken by steward on the previous night - of Idli and Vada which was not bad. The breakfast was to be only meal for us till we reached our hotel in Goa. 

The train screeched to halt at Castle rock around 10 AM, half hour behind schedule. We get down and take out our rain cape. Before starting this trek, we were warned of two things by travel bloggers - Rain and Leeches. We had come well prepared with rain cape and covers for the backpack. Leeches, we weren't much bothered. You can't escape them while trekking in monsoon in tropical forests. Being Saturday, a large number of trekkers had got down at Castle rock. We all set out on the tracks. Walking on the track is definitely easier than walking on trails in the hills. You don't have to worry about the condition of trail. You won't get lost here. All you need to do is to just walk. On the track.

The Start point

Soon, we leave the railway station behind and get onto the track. It starts to drizzle. Before long, it turns into a steady and heavy downpour. It is not fun to walk in the rain. I swear. It is not pleasure to walk with rain cape wrapped around you. The sound of sputtering rain on the rain cape is definitely not music to ears. We continued. The boots were full of water. They had given up the will to stay dry. They were soaked and squelching at every step. On the positive side, this is the best time to trek. The nature is at its best. Back to life streams creating lovely waterfalls. Sun playing hide and seek behind thick canopy of clouds. Mist covering the valley. Cute little waterfalls on the side of the track. Stunning valleys with waterfalls cascading from the hilltop. What else can one ask for?

Spectacular valley views with overcast sky

Walking on the track in rain is tricky. It is not difficult. In the rain, the sleepers become slippery and one has to be careful while moving. It is not unsafe either. Yes, when the train comes, you have to get out of the track. When you do so, you have to be careful and watch out. All along the trail there is enough place for one to stay out of the track safely when the train comes. It is easy to notice when it comes. The drivers are aware that there will be people walking on the track - especially on weekends - and will always sound the horn. Moreover, the trains do not run fast on this ghat section which provides ample time to get off to safety when you hear the train's horn. When you are on a bridge, do not rush if you don't find a good place to come off the track. Walk past the bridge briskly but safely and then move to safe place. Do not wait to come off the track till the train approaches you. You will hear the sound of the train well in advance as sound reverberates in the Hills. Wait patiently till the train cross over. You are not in a race here. Walk relaxed and enjoy the surroundings. This is not a busy route and there are very few trains including odd engine combos and freight trains. Yes, you need to watch the shit on the track. But that should not be too much to worry about. In monsoon when it is raining, it gets washed away. Safety is important and not stepping on shit.

We are in Braganza ghat now. We see the glimpse of the first tunnel. Walking in tunnel which is pitch dark means you need to have a powerful torch which we did carry. The dripping water from the top ensured that we walked under canopy of water inside the the tunnel. There is enough space on the side of the track to move even if a train comes. Try and move faster to get out of the tunnel. If not choose a good spot to stay put till the train pass. Walking in the tunnel is definitely an experience. Fortunately when we entered the first tunnel, there were no one in front of us or behind, which meant we were welcomed by an eerie silence and pitch darkness. There are no animals or bats in these tunnels and hence one can proceed without any fear. First tunnel done, we grew in confidence. Whatever initial apprehensions we had got removed and we started walking confidently.

The first tunnel

Brinda - Inside the tunnel

Five KMs on, we leave Karnataka behind and enter the state of Goa.The fourth tunnel is built to resemble a castle. It is a lovely setting. One has to appreciate the aesthetics of the people who built this tunnel. Why on earth did they choose castle for this tunnel? What could be the reason when all other tunnels are bland. Is this because the tunnel is close to a rock which resemble a castle? The track is flanked by rocky terrain, streams and waterfalls on the left side and beautiful valleys with tall peaks and waterfalls on the horizon on the right side. We could spot some lovely waterfalls cascading from the tall peaks whenever the mist lifted. The left side of the track is a treat of small waterfalls all along. It had been raining heavily in the past week which meant all these small little waterfalls were at their glorious best. We did not venture out to walk near these falls as the water flow was heavy. But if you are trekking after monsoon, these are lovely spots to stop for a bite and break.

The Castle

Water falls in the hills ( how we missed our zoom)

We reach Caranzol, the midpoint of the trek. A small railway station, which is more for maintenance of engines than for any passengers. We trudge on even as the clouds open up and rain drench us. The whole valley is mist filled. We could see a glimpse of another tunnel and sort of a bridge. We wait for the rain to reduce and weather to clear a bit giving us some visibility before we start again. After heavy downpour for ten minutes, the sky clears giving us a spectacular view of a bridge with a tunnel at the end of it. We look back to see for any approaching trains and confirming there being none, we cross the bridge quickly and enter the tunnel. This one is drilled through a huge monolith. We admire the skills and guts of railway engineers who made it possible almost 100 years back.

Caranzol Railway station

The bridge and the tunnel - Isn't this spectacular!!

Rain plays hide and seek. We are not bothered. The rain cape has given us good protection so far and shoes though filled with water provides excellent grip on the ground. We continue in the rain and see a yellow board at a distance. We are overjoyed to see a railway station and are sure that it must be Dudhsagar. We are proved correct as we inch closer and greeted by waterfalls on the side as we walk towards the railway staion.

The falls is still a KM away from the railway station. We do not want to carry our backpacks. We meet and request the station master if we could leave our backpacks in the railway station. He was initially reluctant. I understood why. He did not want to set a precedence by safekeeping the luggage of trekkers. I tell him that we are also from Railway family - my dad had served in Indian Railways - at which he relents and ask us to leave the backpack. Oh, it was such a relief to remove the backpack and sit for few minutes on a bench in front of Station Master cabin. Next to the cabin was a chaiwallah and we badly needed a hot cup of tea.

Energised by hot cuppa, we were now on the home run. The falls is around 1 KM from railway station and this stretch is beautiful indeed. Rains had given a temporary break and mist seemed to be clearing as well. We cross two back to back small tunnels to hear the roaring sound of the falls. But we don't see any glimpse of it. We are excited and walk briskly. As we walk, we hear the sound of an engine and get off the track. The engines cross us and move towards Castle Rock.

All is well, let the train pass

Dudh Sagur - That's how Portuguese spelt or is it British?

The Engine combo on the way to Castle Rock - notice the water falls in the background.

The penultimate tunnel before the falls

We look up to see the first glimpse of the falls. The sight is actually deceiving as it looks like a small cascade.

The first glimpse of the falls

We walk ahead. Droplets of water from the falls welcome us and after few steps we are in front of the waterfall. It is a WOW feeling. A feeling of accomplishment which removes all fatigue. It is a mighty one. Rains have made the falls into a glorious sight. Cascades of milky white water tumble down rocky terrain. Gurgle of fresh rain water falling from 310 metres fill the valley. It is sheer joy. The mist clears and we get a good view of the water falls. Our joy is short lived as the skies open up and it pours again. Merciless rain. The bridge is wide enough for people to stand and enjoy the sight. One can also climb to a viewpoint on the left side of the falls from where you can see it. Being Saturday, there is a large crowd. We spend half an hour enjoying the vistas of the waterfalls. There is no chance of us going down the stream to take pictures of the bridge with waterfalls in the backdrop. It is risky and we did not want to take chance. We trudge back to Dudhsagar railways station.

The milky Falls - Dudh Sagar - the mighty one!

All the fatigue of trek is gone!!

Spectacular valley view around the falls

The view point next to the falls. Also doubling as shelter for campers

I start chatting with station master. The young bloke is from Orissa and is working in Dudhsagar for last three years. He is happy to be there and is enjoying being in the middle of nature. I ask him when the next train to Kulem is as we wanted to go to Goa. He says that he will put us on a engine so that we reach Kulem faster. He doesn't do that for everyone. Being part of the railway family, he is helping us out. Many trekkers get onto the freight trains or engines to return back. The engine combo - three engines at a time - arrives. He talks to the driver who allows us to hop into the engine in the middle. We throw the backpack, climb the steps and enter the drivers cabin. Along with us two more railway employees also get in. We keep the backpack in the cabin and ask the driver whether we can go out and stand on the side. He says yes, but ask us to hold the handrails. 

Travelling in a diesel engine and in the rain is a blissful experience. It moves slowly and we see myriad of small streams and waterfalls on the way. We cross a tunnel and as soon as we pass it, we are greeted by large cascade of water on us. I look back to see a mini waterfall from the top of the tunnel which fell on us! It was unexpected and thrilling.

The engine ride!

We enter a tunnel........

........and come out with a waterfall on our head!

It is a lovely ride

We could see trekkers from Goa on the trail. We reach Kulem and it is 4 PM. We are wet to the core and i ask the station master when the next train to Madgaon is, the town where we were to be picked by our hotel in Goa. He says, it is at 5.30 PM. We are not inclined to wait and ask him if we can get any taxis. He says yes and ask us to go out of the station to get one. We climb and cross over the bridge. We negotiate with a taxi driver who is willing to take us to Madgaon. We agree on a price and hop into Xylo.

It was a day well spent. A day to remember and cherish. There is a great charm in trekking in monsoon on the railway track. You won't regret and all fatigue will vanish when you see the beauty of nature - Dudhsagar Waterfalls in full glory!

Getting there

If you plan a trek, you can either start from Castle Rock or Kulem. It is 14 KMs from castle Rock and 11 KMs from Kulem. All trains on Goa - Londa sector stop at both places.

Time to trek - 5 - 6 Hours

Travel Tips

a) It is good to wear a good trekking shoes. We have seen many walking in normal chappals or sports shoes on the trail. But we don't advise. A good trekking shoe like Forclaz 500 or Forclaz 600 or Woodlands will give you excellent grip on the slippery track. 

b) Always walk on the track and beware of shit spots. Walking on the trail next to track may not be a great option.

c) A high power torch is a must as many tunnels - which are dark - have to be crossed.

d) Take a good rain gear. Walking with an umbrella may not work as it will be windy.

e) Don't worry about leeches. It is part and parcel of the trek. We were lucky. None came near us!

f) Don't be in a hurry. Walk safely. At the same time stop and enjoy the surroundings. It is just lovely.

g) All trains stop at Dudhsagar though there is no authorised stop as such. No tickets will be issued at Dudhsagar. Try and get the return ticket either at Castle Rock or Kulem.

h) There are no cloak rooms to keep your luggage or toilets in Dudhsagar.

i) Except on weekends, you may not find anyone selling eatables or tea/coffee. Make sure you carry eatables with you.

j) Don't venture into the interior of waterfalls or try to climb the rocks. Rocks are slippery and every year there are numerous stories of people falling to death while attempting to climb. 

k) If you are planning to camp during monsoon then there is one shelter near the small church near the station. If you are camping make sure you have all the items which campers generally take along. 

l) Always check out with station master when is the last train. You can always hop on to a freight train/engine by requesting the guard/driver. 

m) Dudhsagar is still a safe place to camp at night if going in a group. Same may not be told for independent women travellers though no untoward incidents have been reported so far.

n) If you are looking for a quiet walk in the woods during this trek, you may be disappointed. Weekend trekkers can be raucous on the track. More so in tunnels and near waterfalls. If you are looking for solitude in the woods, then plan trek on a weekday. Not on a weekend.

We invite you to read the following interesting posts on this blog

Triund Trek - A Heavenly Hike in Himalayas!

Five Lovely Treks in Karnataka!

Trek to Valley of Flowers - Paradise on earth!

Ten Waterfalls in Karnataka you should not miss this monsoon!

Did you like this post? Please share it with friends if you find it useful. If you need any help in planning a trek to Dudhsagar write to us @ poorna62@gmail.com

Happy to help.

Ganesh Chaturthi - Celebration of God of Wisdom!

Festivals are integral part of Indian culture. The colours, the fervour and the feeling of community demonstrate the often repeated dictum of "Unity in Diversity" of this great country. Larger festivals of the country is a community celebration. People of all walks - irrespective religious identity - join these events. These are also occasions which bring out the "Indianness" of the country.

Ganesh Chaturthi is one such festival which bring everyone together. Started as a festival to mobilise Indians during India's freedom movement by Lokamanya Balagangadhar Tilak, it has grown bigger and bigger. It is now so big in cities of Bombay, Pune and Bangalore, the corporates lend their support to larger organisations. What Durga Puja is for Calcutta and Navratri for Ahmedabad, it is Ganesh Chaturthi for Bombay, Pune and Bangalore.

Lord Ganesha blessed our home yesterday and he will remain for next three days before visarjan on Thursday. 

Lord Ganesha @ Home

In the meantime, take a look at the following interesting photo features on Ganesh Chaturthi in Bombay. 

Ganesh Chaturthi - A Photo feature in WSJ

Ganesh Chaturthi - A Photo feature

This is the time to be in Bombay to get immersed in the festivities. Plan a trip in next one week. If you are on business travel, make sure you take a day off to do what Bengalis do during Durga Puja - Pandal Hopping.

You won't regret it. You will be rewarded and blessed!

Skywatch Friday - Boulders @ Sunset in Hampi

Hampi amazes us every time we go there. 

We were walking around Hemakuta group of temples when we were there in May this year. It was in the evening and thanks to summer rains on the previous night, temperature was bearable. Hampi is very hot during day in May with temperatures rising up to 40 degrees celsius. Sun was setting down the hill in the horizon. River Tungabhadra was looking like a silver line glistening in the evening sun. 

Hampi is a photographers delight and we were clicking the pictures. Boulders, Columns and Mantapas make excellent subjects for photography and Hampi gives you ample opportunities if you look out for one. Here is one for the keeps.

If you are planning a trip to Hampi and want to know more about it, please click here.

Hampi's Wonders and Sandur's Splendours!

Driving Holidays from Bangalore - Karnataka Heritage Trails

If you like this post, please share it. If you need help in planning a trip to Hampi, you can write at poorna62@gmail.com

Happy to help.

Back of the Blog - Coorg from the Sky!

Back of the blog. Here we will share tit-bits and snippets on India Travel which may be useful for a traveller in India. It may be some new information about the place, a new cuisine one can explore, a bit of history, a funny anecdote or a good travel book. Anything connected to Travel in India. 

We all know that Coorg is beautiful. The green vistas, lovely waterfalls, wildlife, people, cuisine......every aspect of Coorg makes it an enchanting place. We also know that Coorgis love adventure and outdoor activities.

Did you know that you can see the "Scotland of the East" from the sky? We read about it and waiting for the rainy season get over to experience the thrill of seeing the rolling hills of Brahmagiri ranges from the sky.

Muthanna and Tanya makes it happen through their agency Coorg Sky Adventures. Passionate about the sport and trained pilots, they will send you up in the air to see Coorg from the sky. Here is the link their website.

Coorg Sky Adventures

We are waiting for the rains to stop to hop on and soar into the sky, above the lovely hills of Coorg. Be sure you hop into these birds when you visit Coorg next time. Till then do enjoy the video shot by them.

The Video

Want to know more about Coorg? For related posts on Coorg please click here

Coorg

If you like this post, please Share It. If you need more information on planning a trip to Coorg, pls write to poorna62@gmail.com

Happy to help.

Yusmarg - Hidden wonder of Kashmir!

Why are we writing about Yusmarg of all the places in Kashmir? It is simple. Though close to Srinagar, it is a hidden wonder. Very few visit Yusmarg. Blame it on Militancy and closeness to Pir Panjal ranges, it was not heard by many. Till now.

Before i share our experiences in Yusmarg, First things first.

First. No, we did not do the "Great Lakes Trek" i had written about. Rain in the mountains played spoilsport and we did not want to take the risk. Previous groups had a miserable experience of staying in their bivouac for 48 hours in torrential downpour. Not a good experience of getting stuck like that. When we reached Srinagar, the weather forecast was not encouraging but we were hoping for the best. Finally, when  we made it to Sonamarg, our start point, we heard that rains were certainty. Now we had to take a call. We decided against going though some in the group wanted to go ahead and take a chance.

Second. Kashmir is absolutely Safe and Normal. 

We never had any plan B. Now we had to make one. With almost eight days at our disposal, we had enough time to explore. The plan was finalised. We decided to make use of the opportunity to explore around Srinagar, visit Mata Vaishno Devi temple near Jammu, drive down from there to Dharamsala, onwards to Amritsar before catching the flight to Bangalore.

To say Kashmir is "Jannat" or "Heaven" is an understatement. It is a beautiful beyond words. The place, the people, the cuisine........... We had a lovely time.

Muzaffar, our cabbie was introduced to us by Yasmin who runs a lovely home stay in Srinagar. He had come to pick us up at the airport when we arrived and had shown around Srinagar on that afternoon. A tall and lanky man with flowing beard, he looked pious and religious kind of a guy. I, as usual, started the conversation with him asking how the situation in the valley is, the houseboats, shikaras, Dal lake, floating market, Mughal gardens, Hazratbal shrine etc....He seemed knowledgeable and very positive. He was feeling bad that Afzal Guru's hanging in February and the situation in the valley aftermath of the incident reduced the tourist inflow in peak season of April-May. 

"Janab" He said - this is how Kashmiris address - "You see for yourself and judge. Do you feel insecure here?" 

"No" i reply.

He is right. The city is normal. This is the same refrain i heard from many Kashmiris i spoke to in the city. "Srinagar is safe and normal. Mainstream media does not want to highlight positives of the valley."

"Where do you take us tomorrow" i ask Muzaffar, getting down from the car after a quick tour of Srinagar.

"Yusmarg" pat comes his reply. I look at Brinda and she blinks too. We had not heard of this place at all. I had heard of Gulmarg but not Yusmarg. 

"Jannat hai Janab. Better than Gulmarg"

"Ok, Let us do it then. Let us start after breakfast in the morning". He leaves and confirm that he will be here next morning.

Sitting next to him the car, I ask him the story behind the name "Yusmarg". He says that the word "Yus" is a short form of Yusuf which is the Arabic word for Jesus. Marg - means Valley in Kashmiri. The legend is that Jesus came to Kashmir through this valley and hence the name Yusmarg. 

We drive through dusty, crowded streets of Srinagar. The town is bustling with energy after previous day's Hartal. For the next few KMs the drive is inconsequential. Mid way at Nagam, we start climbing and the road becomes curvy as we drive along a large valley. The landscape is green - brown and the road is flanked by the orchards of Apple, Pear and Almond. It is a bright afternoon and the weather is pleasant. The road is good. We cross the town of Charar-e-sharif famous for its Dargah of Hazrat Sheikh Noor-u-din Wali, locally known as Alamdar-e-Kashmir. A shrine of importance for all Kashmiris, the town became more famous in nineties when the militants laid siege to it and hid inside. A long drawn gunfight between Indian Army and Militants liberated the shrine

Apple trees on the way

Dargah of Charar-e-sharif

Leaving Charar-e-sharif behind, we climb gradually. The road opens up and we see pine and cedars appearing on the horizon. There is a nip in the air laced with pine and cedar as we leave behind the valley. A large meadow with cedars in the background appears at a distance. Muzaffar assures that this is only the beginning. We just can't stop from getting down and clicking some pictures. The stream, meadows and the trees make it picture perfect.

We drive for another kilometre and come to a pristine lake next to the road. It looks like a lake you will find in Europe. Thankfully, there is no boating and the lake is still unspoilt. Driving on, we reach the tourist information centre of Yusmarg. It is Sunday but there is hardly a crowd. Which is good for us. We find horses and their handlers - Gujjars - around. Gujjars are a nomadic community in the Himalayas who live in mountains and rear sheep. During winter, they migrate to valleys and in summers they go back to mountains. Hardy people for whom moving in the mountains is a cakewalk.

The lake at the entrance of Yusmarg......You can notice tourist huts by J&K Tourism in the horizon

We look for any information on the place. Like many places in India, we don't find any. A small board near the car park area gives details of the places that can be seen along with rates for horse ride. There is absolutely no information how to explore the place if one does not want to go riding. We are the only few visitors in Yusmarg on this day and we get surrounded by Gujjars. These guys are quite amiable unlike the ones we saw in Gulmarg. They plead with us to take a ride. Unsure about the safety, we are reluctant to get on one. Rashid, the guy with a horse, assures us that nothing wrong would happen. He is willing take us to Dargah and then to Doodh Ganga for Rs 350 each.

"Can we go by foot?" I ask Rashid.

"Yes" he says pausing for a moment and then adds, "You can. But the trail is muddy due to overnight rain".

But we haven't come prepared and are wearing only walking sandals. There is no chance of trekking here without proper shoes. I was also not sure if there were any guides. Thus, we didn't have an option but to hop on to the horses. If you don't do these treks on the horse, there is nothing to do in Yusmarg. We get an additional helper to go along with Brinda apart from the handler.

We start our exploration of Yusmarg. Imtiaz, a ten-year-old kid comes along with me while Rashid and his friend go with Brinda. We walk on the newly built pathway towards Doodh Ganga and turn left towards the Pine forests after ten minutes. We are now in charming countryside. The trail goes through pine and cedar forests. The trees are tall and big. We can see lumbering operations going on. We cross the tiny hamlet of Rashid and his fellow Gujjars and move deeper into the forest. 

The muddy trail though the lovely forests.......Pine and Cedars all around. 

Brinda on the horse with helper and handler

The Alpine temperate forests are unlike the tropical ones we have seen in South India. There is not much undergrowth and the trees are either Cedar or Pine. The tree cover is not dense allowing enough sun to lit up the trail. Moti, my ride looks younger and spirited. He negotiates the ups and downs of the trail with aplomb. It is mostly down hill. Sometimes he makes his own trail going off the beaten track. Ever alert Imtiaz brings him back.

"Don't hold the reins tight" says Imtiaz. He teaches me how to use right or left rein to control the horse. I nod and test my understanding. I am sitting on a horse after 30 Years. Last time i sat was during my days in Military Academy in Madras. None of us opted for Equestrian club as Horse riding was considered as buggery. So this was my maiden attempt to ride a horse. Brinda in front was nervous initially but got her confidence after the helper also came along. 

An hour's ride in pristine forest brings us to a lovely stream. Across the stream is a small Dargah of Peer baba. I ask Rashid about the Dargah. Rashid says that there used to be a baba who lived in these forests revered by Gujjars. On his death, the Small dargah was built. Gujjars pay obeisance to him. A festival is celebrated once a year in his memory.

Lovely landscape around Dargah

The small dargah of Peer Baba

Gujjars crossing the stream

We get down from our ride. It is refreshing to be in the middle of nowhere, amidst pristine woods with gorgeous panoramic views. The place reminds you of the painting you would have done as a kid in the school. As stream flanked by woods with hills as backdrop, a small hut........

I am not sure how long this place will remain untouched. But for now, this is just a paradise. It reminded me of our trip to Valley of Flowers last year. We did not see many wild flowers here though.

The ride from now to Doodh Ganga followed the stream. We climb and walk through the woods. Moti balances well on the loose stones and move quickly. Imtiaz is vigilant as ever and make sure that Moti does not go astray. I am also gaining confidence and enjoying it. We now reach a high ground. We see a stream rolling by and a lovely valley in front of us. Climbing down from the mount we walk down to the stream. The stream flowing over the rocks create a small waterfall. This place is known as Doodh Ganga. Doodh in Hindi is Milk and Ganga is a metaphor any river/stream in India.

Doodh Ganga valley

Doodh Ganga 

We spend few minutes in the place. We now see more visitors coming in. Doodh Ganga is the place which most visita as it is the nearest place from the Tourist Information centre. The cost of horse ride is also cheap. From Doodh Ganga, the return trail is a sheer climb and the horses struggle a bit as the ground is slushy and slippery. But they manage well. 

Few minutes of climb and we are back on flat trail. We now see beautiful meadows on either side of the trail. The tourism department has built lovely cottages on these meadows. I am not sure whether it is open as we could see the main tourist information centre being under construction. Thankfully, Yusmarg is still not commercialised and the stay options are only managed by Jammu and Kashmir Tourism. 

Isn't this lovely!

A Gujjar with his cattle

Our horse ride in the mountains is over. It is an exhilarating experience. We thank Rashid, Imtiaz and pay them generous tips. They are happy. Rashid invites us to his home for a cup of "Gujjar tea". His house is far and we had to leave. We decline his offer politely, have a cup of tea in the only restaurant in Yusmarg which is managed by J&K Tourism department. 

The restaurant is located on a high ground on a meadow overlooking the lake. We see a Kashmiri family enjoying the picnic lunch. As we stroll on the meadows, two cute little Gujjar girls come to us and say hello. It is a holiday for the school and they have gone to the forest to pick up some produce. They look lovely and innocent. I give some chocolates and bid them goodbye.

Lovely girls of Yusmarg

We start our journey back. Few minutes on the road, we are greeted by rain. The sun and the rain play hide and seek as we drive along the valley. I look through the window to see a lovely rainbow above the valley.

Muzaffar show us Almond orchards as we drive along. He stops suddenly when he sees a family plucking the almonds. He gets down and talks to them in Kashmiri. He asks us to get down and shows us how the almonds are harvested. The almonds here are different than the ones with juicy exterior we have seen in South India. There is a small kernel which opens to a soft shell in which will be hidden the almond seed. The family is generous and asks us to take the almonds if we wished. Muzaffar gets a big bag and fills up with raw almonds. I ask him if we have to pay anything. He suggests Rs 100 as a token. The family is not willing to accept saying that we are their "mehman" (guests) and i force them to take it as a token of our appreciations!

Almond trees and the ones which are plucked (below)

Yusmarg is a hidden wonder. Unspoilt and pristine. It is also trekkers' paradise. There are many trails leading to Pir Panjal ranges. Doodh Patri - another hidden gem - can be trekked too.  This area is still not exploited by Commercial tourism.

Following are the Panoramio pictures taken by Khan Gowher from Google Earth. These are the vistas you will see when you trek around Yusmarg

Google earth snapshot of Yusmarg. You can see lovely trails to Ayed on the left hand corner - notice Panoramio pictures on the map. 

Go there. There is no crowd. The woods are lovely and meadows are beautiful.

Getting there

Since Yusmarg is close to Srinagar - 50 KMs - the best option is to hire a taxi. Alternately, there should be buses to this place from Srinagar. Other option is to go to Charar-e-Sharif by bus and take a taxi from there.

Stay options

We saw few lovely cottages by J&K Tourism. I am not sure whether they are operational. One can check with J&K Tourism office in Srinagar for details.

Travel Tips

a) Yusmarg can be done as a day trip comfortably from Srinagar.

b) It is also a nice place to stay and enjoy the nature. Go for long walks, angle in the lake....

c) If you are a trekker, then you can make this place as base to explore around. There are trekking trails to Ayed, Pir Panjal and nearby places which are beautiful. I am also not sure of availability of any guide. It will be good to check with J&K Tourism or local tour operators.

d) Yusmarg will be snowbound during winter which has its own charm.

e) On a clear day, one can see Pir Panjal ranges in the distance. To our bad luck, the sky was overcast and the mist had covered mountains.

f) I happened to see Jammu and Kashmir Tourism development Corporation website which looks nice. You can book accommodation through them. Here is the link.

Yusmarg

You may also like to check out the following posts on Kashmir in this blog.

Skywatch Friday - Srinagar from Taj!

Road Trip Vignettes - Cricket bats from Kashmir

Skywatch Friday - Vistas of Kashmir Valley

Skywatch Friday - Road to Gulmarg

If you like this post, please Share It. If you need more information on planning a trip to Kashmir, pls write to poorna62@gmail.com

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