Tuesday, 18 February 2014

Thanjavur Brihadeeswara Temple - Big, Beautiful and Divine!

Thanjavur or Tanjore as it used to be known earlier reflects the best of Tamil Nadu. A temple town that is rich in culture and tradition of South India. We have been to Thanjavur many times and every time we have come back with good memories.

We were there again in October this year. This was more of a night stay on our trip to Navagriha temples in the region. This was a week before Dasara. Weather was good. A good spell of rain in the region had ensured we saw green and only green everywhere. Our main aim of staying in Thanjavur was to visit Brihadeeswara temple at dawn and click the pictures of magnificent temple. A new boutique hotel in a heritage building was our place of stay.

We were there in time when temple opened at 6.30 in the morning. The place of our stay being close to temple helped. There weren't many people at this time of the day. The weather was cool and mornings are the best time to visit temples in Tamil Nadu.

As we entered, the sheer magnificence of the temple left us wondering how it could have been possible one thousand years ago. The grandeur of the sculptures start at the entrance itself. We marvel at the life size sculptures of dwarapalakas or divine guardians. The Brihadeeshwara temple or the Big temple as it is known depicts the zenith of Chola architecture and sculptural tradition.



The temple is bound by huge wall with a moat which is dry. The tower at the entrance is small but elegantly carved. As we were entering the temple, a bass relief next to the dwarapalakas strike our eyes. This is a beautifully carved scene of Girija Kalyana or Lord Shiva's marriage to Parvati.


This temple along with temples at Darasuram and Gangai Konda Cholapuram form the cluster of Chola temples which is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

Let us now show you what we saw and captured on that morning. A picture is worth a thousand words. In this case, it is ten thousand words........

Big temple glowing in morning light 
Towering to the sky! 
Columnar periphery of the temple
The silhouettes of the temple against morning sun is just stunning. We loved this picture and two below.


Getting There

By Road - Thanjavur is well connected to different parts of Tamil Nadu by bus. If you plan to drive from Bangalore or Chennai, the roads are excellent.

By Train - Thanjavur is well connected to other parts of the country by Train.

By Air - The nearest airport is at Trichy which is at a distance of 40 KMs

Stay Options

Being a small town the city do not have too many good options though hotels suiting different budgets are available. If you looking for something different, then you should check into Tanjore Hi, the new boutique hotel in a restored heritage mansion.

Other Information

a) Visit the temple when it opens in the morning. It is tranquil and divine. No crowds. No noise. Since the temple faces east, it glows in morning light. It is also the coolest time of the day to visit the temple. The temple has second tallest Shiva linga next only to the one in Bhojpur details of which can be seen here in this blog.

Bhojpur - Temple with tallest Shiva Linga in the world!

b) Apart from the big temple the other places worth a visit are the Palace - for lovely murals - and Saraswathi Mahal library which stores rare manuscripts written in Sanskrit.

c) Thanjavur can be made as a base to explore Cauvery delta region. Day trips can be done to Tichy/Srirangam (temple town), Tranquebar (Danish fort and lovely beach), Velankanni/Nagore (Basilica and Dargah), Darasuram/Swamimalai/Thiruvaiyaru (Chola temples and birth place of Saint Thyagaraja on the banks of River Cauvery)

d) Navagriha temple circuit can also be done making Thanajvur as base ( Look out for a post on this soon on this blog)

e) Head to Poom Puhar show room to take a look at some stunning Chola bronzes. You may buy one if you have a fat wallet!

f) Watch the local artisans make lovely Tanjore paintings in small households on the southern side of big temple. You may buy one as well.

g) Lastly, don't forget to drink "Kumbakonam Degree Coffee" in any of the many outlets in the city.

h) For more details on Architectural heritage of the temple, please look at this link in this blog

Back of the Blog - Indian Architecture by Takeo Kamiya

i) For a driving holiday in Tamil Nadu covering Thanjavur, please take a look at this post in this blog

Driving Holidays from Bangalore 3 - A Tryst with Pondicherry and Tamil Nadu

Dont miss to click the link below to see the brilliant pictures of the temple by Arun Christopher and lovely murals of Tanjore palace by Saurabh Chatterjee. The panoramic view of temple by Arun is just brilliant.

Arun Christopher captures Big Temple!

Saurabh Captures the beautiful murals in Tanjore Palace!

You may also be interested to take a look at this link in this blog on magnificent Halebid in Karnataka, shortlisted for UNESCO Heritage sites.

Halebid - Where stones speak to you!

Share the post

If you enjoyed reading this post, please take a moment to click on buttons below or on the sidebar and tell the world!


Friday, 14 February 2014

Back of the blog - Great Travel Books and Travel Movies

Back of the blog. Here we will share tit-bits and snippets on India/World Travel which may be useful for a traveller. It may be some new information about the place, a new cuisine one can explore, a bit of history, a funny anecdote or a good travel book. Anything connected to Travel. 

We love reading travelogues and travel books. Whether it is Chatwin or Stevenson or Theroux or Bryson, we love reading them all.

We happened get this list from Matt (Matthew Kepnes) of Nomadic Matt website which we follow. The list looks interesting and it is possible you might read or seen many of them. If not pick up a book or a movie and enjoy this weekend!

Great Travel Books

Love with a Chance of Drowning by Torre DeRoche (My favorite book of 2013)
The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho (I've read this book at least five times)
The Turk Who Loved Apples by Matt Gross
On the Road by Jack Kerouac
Do Travel Writers Go to Hell? by Thomas Kohnstamm
Unlikely Destinations: The Lonely Planet Story by Tony Wheeler
The Beach by Alex Garland
Oracle Bones by Peter Hessler
Smile When You're Lying by Chuck Thompson
Vagabonding by Rolf Potts
Seven Years in Tibet by Heinrich Harrer
In a Sunburned Country by Bill Bryson
The Lost Girls: Three Friends. Four Continents. One Unconventional Detour Around the World. by The Lost Girls
The Longest Way Home by Andrew McCarthy

The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux
The Sex Lives of Cannibals: Adrift in the Pacific by J. Maarten Troost
Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert
Cruising Attitude: Tales of Crashpads, Crew Drama, and Crazy Passengers at 35,000 Feet by Heather Poole
The Good Girl's Guide to Getting Lost by Rachel Friedman
The Geography of Bliss by Eric Weiner

Great Travel Movies

Thursday, 13 February 2014

Skywatch Friday - Sunrise over Grand Trunk Road!

When we left Bodh Gaya it was 5.30 in the morning. It was still dark. We were returning from Gangtok. The plan was to reach Bhubaneswar by evening.

The dawn was greeted by a foggy road. Grand Trunk Road was empty. We could see truck drivers huddling around bonfires and warming themselves.........a cup of tea in hand and mufflers round their necks.

The orangish sun in the eastern horizon was trying to peep through the fog. 

We stopped in the middle of the road to click this one.


A few kilometres of drive and Poorna stopped the car. It was like a picture postcard. A bridge, placid waters and reflection of morning sun.

Perfect, as we captured it in the camera.


If you love road trips like us, you may look at the following posts in this blog

Driving Holidays from Bangalore

Nathula Pass - A Spectacular drive to China Border!

Driving in Western Ghats - An itinerary

A Monsoon drive in Western Ghats

Mesmerised in Malnad in Monsoon.....

Share the post

If you enjoyed reading this post, please take a moment to click on buttons below or on the sidebar and tell the world!

Sunday, 9 February 2014

Road Trip Vignettes - Scenes in Bihar

The fun of road trips is the opportunity you get for experiencing interesting aspects of rural India. The state of Bihar in North India is an agrarian country. You will experience that more when you are driving in the Gangetic plains of Bihar. 

During our long road trip from Bangalore to Gangtok, we happened to pass through the Heart of Bihar. The weekly village markets which is the backbone of Indian rural economy was in full swing in many villages we passed through. This is the season of vegetables in North India when farmers grow cauliflower, carrot, radish etc on the damp fields after harvesting paddy. Then we saw the ubiquitous transport system where traveling on roof is a rule than an exception.

Here are some vignettes ....

The highway turns into village market in the morning....


The colours of rural india transport!

Country roads take me home....


Women on their way back home

.Cauliflowers all the way.....

It was an interesting experience for us driving in Bihar. Rustic, colourful and some time chaotic.

For more stories from our road trips in India on this blog, please click here

Road Trip Vignettes

If you are planning a Driving Holiday from Bangalore, please click here

Driving Holidays from Bangalore

Share the post

If you enjoyed reading this post, please take a moment to click on buttons below or on the sidebar and tell the world!



Friday, 7 February 2014

Nathula Pass - A Spectacular drive to China border in Sikkim!

Driving in the hills is always fun. Many a time it is the drive which is more enjoyable than the final destination. One of our agenda when we went to Sikkim during Christmas holidays was to drive to Nathula pass, the highest pass on Indo-China Border.

While driving in the Himalayas, it is always good to start early and we followed that dictum. We left Gangtok around 6.30 AM with Rifleman Gurung from Gurkha regiment accompanying us. Thanks to Poorna's friends in Army, our breakfast was arranged at Changu lake in the Army transit mess.

Gurung started guiding us as we came out of Gangtok town and we stopped at the check post for checking the permit. In Sikkim, you are not allowed to drive your own cars beyond Gangtok. You need a permit to drive up the hills and you won't get it. Thus, you have to hire a local taxi to travel around. We could get permit as Poorna had served in Army.

The road to Nathula is not a smooth drive. The road is at edge of the mountain. The valleys are deep and being a landslide prone area, many parts of the road especially till Changu lake is nothing but rock and gravel which only the SUVs can maneuver. The Border Roads Organisation is doing an amazing job in doing up the road and we could see lovely stretches of the road done by them in such adverse conditions. The road is curvy and narrow at times. Poorna was cautiously driving allowing the local drivers overtake with gusto.

As we continue our drive, hop on with us as we take you through a pictorial journey to Nathu La.....

Start of the Journey.....
Portion of the road in the landslide prone area before Changu lake is fit only for SUVs. 

Sentinels of our borders.........Hats off to these guys
Look at the Army unit's location......
First glimpse of snow...
We had our breakfast here. Some of the best Alu parathas we have ever tasted.
Changu Lake. It was half frozen. The setting was idyllic.
Brinda and her Yak....

The drive from here to Nathula was spectacular. Can you see the road anywhere here??

.......or Santa Claus and his reindeer.......

The vistas were so beautiful it looked as if it was made for the Christmas day

A Frozen Waterfall

Isn't this lovely......
The Man, The Machine, The Snow

A Frozen lake on the way

Baba Harbhajan Mandir - Dedicated in the memory of Sepoy Harbhajan Singh who went missing while on a patrol. 

A strong belief among Army folks that Baba guides them during their difficult period while serving in these harsh conditions. Every visitor to Nathula has to take the blessing of Baba before going up.
For More details click on this link Baba Harbhajan Singh
The white and brown landscape of Nathu La

A Young Chinese soldier was cynosure of all eyes. He was the lone guard on duty and was obliging. The problem was the language. When Brinda spoke to him, all he could answer was "Ya". So we kept his name as "Ya"!
A Chinese Guard Post

Ashoka Pillar - Indian National emblem
Army War Memorial - In the memory of those who laid down their lives so that we live in safety
A view of Chumbi valley of Tibet - On Chinese side

Jomolhari peak of Bhutan with Chumbi valley in foreground

As we left Changu lake and drove towards Gangtok, fog enveloped the whole valley.......Workers of Border Roads Organisation walking back to their barracks

The weather throughout was excellent. At Nathula the cold winds was numbing. We really salute these soldiers who works in such adverse conditions and keep their spirits high. On our way back we again stopped over for a hot cup of tea at Army detachment in Changu. 

We bid goodbye to our friends in uniform and left Changu. Midway, the whole are got enveloped with a thick fog and it was a slow drive to Gangtok.

Travel Tips

a) The Drive is slow and 55 KMs will take 4 hours because of road condition. Hire a good taxi. Ensure that the agent gets all permits ready on the previous day itself. You need to provide a copy of passport size photo and address proof for getting the permit. The permit is issued at the police headquarters and all agents are aware of it.

b) It is a one complete day trip. Leave early. Return early. Sun rises early in North East. Make sure the driver drives safely. There is a tendency among the younger drivers to drive fast. It is definitely not needed. 

c) Stop and enjoy the the vistas on the way. 

d) There are only two villages on the way to Nathu La where you can get eatables and water.

e) Baba Harbhajan Singh mandir will close after 2 PM. Make sure you are there well in time.

f) Nathu La at 15,000 feet can impact some with symptoms of Altitude Mountain Sickness. Do not exert yourself at this place. No running or walking briskly.  If you find yourself out of breath, come down the hill and you will be alright.

g) Please wear woollen as it is very cold at top.

h) Carry a good Binocular along.

If you loved reading this post, you may be interested to look at the following drives in Himalayas.






Share the post

If you enjoyed reading this post, please take a moment to click on buttons below and the side bar tell the world!

Thursday, 6 February 2014

Skywatch Friday - Gregory Lake, Nuwara Eliya

Nuwara Eliya in the Hill country of Sri Lanka is a lovely little town. It still oozes the bygone era of British which can be seen in some of the heritage buildings in the city. It is a nice place to laze around. A good place for picking up a bicycle and move around.

The star attraction in Nuwara Eliya town is the charming Gregory lake. When we passed through the town during our trip in Sri Lanka, we stopped over and enjoyed the boating in this peaceful lake. The lake is not crowded like the ones we see in India and also very clean. The surrounding hills add beauty to the place.


This picture was taken in the afternoon of a cloudy day. Fortunately it did not rain!

If you are planning a trip to Sri Lanka, don't miss reading the following post in this blog

Cricket Club Cafe - Eat cricket, Drink Cricket, Watch Cricket!

Share the post

If you enjoyed reading this post, please take a moment to click on buttons below and the side bar tell the world!

Tuesday, 4 February 2014

Food Safari - Momos in Mirik!

It was a chilly and cloudy morning when we reached Mirik. Having left Siliguri early in the morning after sipping a cup of tea, we were hungry when we reached this cute little hill station on the way to Darjeeling. A row of stalls selling hot momos, noodles etc beckoned us.

We are not really fond of momos. Poorna keep saying that it is nothing but a version of our own recipe "Kucchida Kadabu". Since we always believe in eating local cuisine on our travel, we decided to try out Momos for breakfast. 

The steaming momos were inviting and Gurkha lady manning the stall invited us to taste the hot momos. Being veggies, we asked her to give us a plate of veg momos. One bite and we fell in love with it. Hot momos with red chilli chutney was yummy. It had never tasted better. These were definitely better than the ones we had tasted in some of the famed restaurants in Bangalore. After eating to our hearts full, we watered down by a hot cup of tea. 

Brinda with a plate of Momos
Then there were big ones as well. We asked the lady what was that. She said that it is the large size momo. This is the standard breakfast in the hills.


Savour these momos when you to Darjeeling or Mirik or Gangtok. They are better than the ones served in the famed restaurants in our cities!

If you love local food while travelling, you should not miss out this series in this blog. Please click here to go on a Food safari......

Food Safari

Food Streets of Indore

In search of Suleimani Chai......

Share the post

If you enjoyed reading this post, please take a moment to click on buttons below and tell the world!