Monsoon in Western Ghats in India - Itinerary to experience it

This is time for Indian Monsoons. This is also the best time to see Western ghats and experience rain especially in the Malnad region of Thirthahalli in Karnataka. It is still unexplored and receives the second highest rainfall in India. This is THE place for someone who wants to experience Indian monsoons in full glory.

I would recommend you to make Thirthahalli as base (Thirthahalli ) - it is centrally located and has good stay options - and you can comfortably plan for four to five days of outing. It is a sleepy little town in rural Karnataka. Thirthahalli and its surroundings is also an area which receives heavy rain fall.

Having been to Thirthahalli and surroundings many times, here is a recommended itinerary. Of course, this region can be visited throughout the year if you don't want to get wet in the torrential rain! The season between October to March is the best when there is a nip in the air, mist on the mountains and a chance to see glorious sunrises and sunsets.

This itinerary is basically for a road trip from Bangalore. If you don't intend to drive, don't worry. You have an excellent option of taking a night train from Bangalore to Shimogga and ask your host to arrange for a pick up at Shimoga railway station. Shimoga to Thirthahalli is a beautiful and picturesque drive of an hour. If you are a person who loves bus journeys, you have option to catch a direct night bus from Bangalore to Tirthahalli.

Day 1 - Bangalore - Thirthahalli

Total Distance - 339 KMs

Route Map - Bangalore - Tirthahalli

• Leave Bangalore in the morning and reach Tirthahalli for Lunch. 
• It is a comfortable six hours drive. 
• Have breakfast enroute either at Tiptur (Kamat Restaurant) or Arsikere (Raghavendra Lodge) or Kadur (Vinayaka Cafe) or Birur (Preethi Canteen). 
• On the way visit Amritapura - five KMs from Tarikere - for its famous Hoysala temple. 
• In the evening go around Tirthahalli town, visit Bheemanakatte for a quiet evening by Tunga river. 

Useful links

Amritapura - Amrutesvara Temple, Amruthapura - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Day 2 - Tirthahalli - Kundadri - Agumbe - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 80 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Kundadri - Agumbe - Tirthahalli

• Experience the fury of rain and wind on Kundadri - A Small hillock on the way to Agumbe. You can drive up the hill and enjoy panoramic view. You may take a look at Kundadri pictures in my earlier post on Monsoon drive. 
• Visit Agumbe Rain Forest research station and learn about King Cobra and wild life in Western Ghats 
• Enjoy the cascades of Jogi gundi and Koodlu Theerta waterfalls 
• Walk on the streets where Swami and his friends walked in Malgudi Days 
• Return back to Tirthahalli in evening. 
• You may not be able to see beautiful sunset at Agumbe during monsoons which is possible in winters and summer 

Useful links
More Kundadri pics - deepsan: Magical morning at Kundadri Betta

Agumbe - Agumbe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia

Agumbe Rainforest research station - ::.Agumbe - Rainforest Research Station

Malgudi Days - Malgudi_Days

Day 3 - Thirthahalli - Sringeri - Horanadu - Kuppali - Thirthahalli
Total distance - 185 KMs

Route map - Tirthahalli - Sringeri - Horanadu - Tirthahalli

• A beautiful drive. 
• Have early breakfast in the place of your stay or better have a good South Indian breakfast at Sringeri. Visit historical temple of Goddess Sharada 
• Walk over the bridge on Tunga river and visit Shankaracharya's Ashram - don't miss seeing Award winning architecture of Sanskrit Pathashala. 
• Drive to Horanadu. Visit the famous temple of Goddess Annapoorneshwari at the foot hills of mountains 
• Have lunch in temple. 
• After lunch drive back to Tirthahalli and on the way after Koppa, visit the beautifully restored heritage house of great Kannada poet KUVEMPU as a memorial for him at Kuppali - good signage is there. Trek to "Kavi Shyla" a small hill - ten minutes trek - adjoining to the memorial to see "Stone Henge" kind of structure done by well known artist K T Shivaprasad. 
• Enjoy the beautiful view of Sahyadris from the top. 
• Return back to Tirthahalli 

Useful links

Kuppali - Kuppalli - Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia

KUVEMPU - Kuvempu

Sringeri - Shringeri - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Day 4 - Thirthahalli - Kollur - Thirthahalli
Total distance - 167 KMs

Route map - Tirthahalli - Kollur - Tirthahalli

• After early breakfast drive to Kollur. 
• Enjoy the beautiful drive through mountains/valleys 
• Visit temple dedicated to Goddess Mookambika. 
• Return to Tirthahalli for late lunch 

Day 5 - Tirthahalli - Kavaledurga - Mani dam - Nagara Fort - Tirthahalli
Total distance - 114 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Kavaledurga - Mani Dam - Nagara Fort - Tirthahalli

• Kavaledurga is a hillock fort close to Tirthahalli with amazing views of Mani dam backwaters and valleys. 
• After break fast head towards Kavaledurga. 
• Climb the the hill fort - it has steps - enjoy the views. 
• Drive to Nagara fort 
• Drive to Mani dam on the way back and view beautiful backwaters formed by the dam. 
• Return to Tirthahalli for late lunch. 
• After lunch and rest visit Chippalagudde, a picnic spot on Tunga river 

Useful links

KavaleDurga - The Voice of Greenery: Kavaledurga

YouTube Video on Kavaledurga

Mani Dam - The Voice of Greenery: Kavaledurga

Nagara Fort 

YouTube video on Nagara fort

Day 6 - Tirthahalli - Kodachadri - Tirthahalli
Total distance - 138 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Kodachadri

• Trekking of Kodachadri in Monsoons is only for experienced trekkers. 
• Also visit beautiful Hittalamane falls at the foot hills. 
• In non monsoon season, one can enjoy amazing sunset from this peak. 

Useful links

Kodachadri - The Voice of Greenery: Search results for kodachadri

Day 7 - Thirthahalli - Mandagadde bird sanctuary - Sakrebylu elephant camp - Gajanur dam - Tyavarekoppa Lion safari - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 140 KMs

Route Map - Tirthahalli - Shimoga - Tirthahalli

• This can be done as a comfortable day trip. This trip is specially for Kids who will enjoy bathing elephants and see lions and tigers at close quarters. 
• Leave early with packed breakfast. 
• Visit Sakrebylu elephant camp. Watch how the mahouts bathe and train elephants. Allow kids to play with some baby elephants including bathing them 
• After breakfast, drive to Tyavarekoppa lion safari which is ten KMs from Shimoga. On the way stopover at Gajanur dam to enjoy beautiful vistas of backwaters of Tunga river 
• Enjoy lion safari and have lunch in Shimoga. Visit Shivappa Nayaka's palace in city. 
• Drive back to Tirthahalli. 
• Stop over at Mandagadde bird sanctuary on the way for some bird watching 

Useful links

Mandagadde - Mandagadde Images

Sakrebylu - Sakrebylu Images

Day 8 - Thirthahalli - Sagara - Jog falls - Thirthahalli

Total distance - 220 KMs

Route map - Tirthahalli - Jog Falls - Tirthahalli

• After breakfast drive to Jog falls, the tallest water falls in Asia 
• On the way back visit famous temple at Ikkeri on the outskirts of Sagara. 
• Have lunch in Sagara. 
• Return to Tirthahalli 

Useful links

Jog Falls 

          Wiki - Jog Falls

          Google Images - Jog Falls

Ikkeri - Aghoreshvara Temple @ Ikkeri

Day 9 - Return to Bangalore after Breakfast

Interesting Deviations

• If one wants to visit Udupi, then they can deviate from Agumbe or Kollur.
• If one wants to Murdeshwar and beyond, one can do so after Jog falls. Also there is a nice trek of Kanur fort from Jog falls for which one has to stay near Jog falls.

Travel Tips

• Tirthahalli and surroundings experience heavy rainfall during monsoon. Take proper rain gear. 
• Make sure your car is in good condition. Check condition of tyres. 
• Always check locally for latest road condition. Your host will be of help. 
• You can hire a car at Tirthahalli for doing different trips. 
• Plan your itinerary based on number of days you can spare. 
• While trekking or walking in monsoon, you may suffer leech bite. Don't worry. It is a minor hiccup. 

Stay Options

There are good home stays in and around Tirthahalli which provide nice accommodation with excellent meals. We have stayed at Bananki (www.bananki.com) and the Malnad cuisine served by them is awesome. A very good home stay.

For more stay options, you may visit Travelmalnad which lists home stays in Tirthahalli.

Glossary

Malnad - Is a shortened form of "Maley Nadu" meaning the region with rainfall. "Maley" in Kannada Language means Rain

Western ghats - Mountain ranges in peninsular India. A UNESCO World heritage site.

Hoysala - Medieval dynasty who ruled vast parts of South India. Famous for building artistically brilliant temples.

Malgud Days - Iconic Indian television serial

Ashram - Monastery

Pathashala - School

Sahyadri - Another name for Western Ghats

Mahout - Elephant trainer

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Did you like this post?  Do you need help in planning a trip to Tirthahalli and Malnad to experience Indian Monsoon? You are welcome to write to me at poorna62@gmail.com.

Happy to help 

Monsoon drive in Malnad - Chikmagalur, Agumbe, Tirthahalli

The rains had started in South India. This time, there was only one agenda. Just to drive in the rain in Malnad over the weekend. To enjoy the mist. To breathe the fresh air. To count countless water falls! As we drove along, we were spellbound by vast vistas of greenery. We could listen to lyrics written by nature. Words fail to describe the Magnificence of Malnad. We hope these pictures do some justice.

We started on Saturday and returned on Sunday afternoon (23 and 24 July). The route was

Bangalore - Mudigere (via Gendehalli) - Charmadi - Kalasa - Sringeri (via Bale Hole and Hirebylu) - Agumbe - Kundadri - Tirthahalli - Bangalore (via Shivamogga) (We had planned to go Kudremukh but had to cut it out as we were getting delayed)

We did this in five hours straight drive in Scorpio with a stop for five mins in Arsikere for refilling!!

What are you waiting for? Hitch hike with us and enjoy the ride!!

What a welcome!! Marigolds in full bloom near Belur

A precursor to what to expect in the journey as we crossed Kottige Hara and started moving

towards Charmadi - Overcast sky, Misty surroundings, water and green everywhere!! 

Suddenly, the mist cleared giving a nice view of the local school and of the kids who were playing in the rain!

It is fun time!

As we drove to Charmadi, it started raining heavily and the whole place was enveloped in mist.

The first sight of a stream when the mist cleared for seconds!

The valley full of mist!

Local bikers enjoying the rain!!

Rain drenched Charmadi in full glory. The Scorpio seems to like the surroundings!!

The mist playing hide and seek!

We now sight the first water falls - a small jumping stream - countless to come!!

Waterfalls, Water falls every where!! You will encounter one every 500 Meters!!

Waterfalls, Water falls every where!! You will encounter one every 500 Meters!!

Waterfalls, Water falls every where!! You will encounter one every 500 Meters!!

Waterfalls, Water falls everywhere!! You will encounter one every 500 Meters!!

The Beast and the mist!!

Mist clad Ghat road - Nature at its best

Some more!! Some were hidden in the mist..

Some more!! Some were hidden in the mist..

Like this beauty!!

Some more!! Some were hidden in the mist..

This was a real beauty. A tall one but hidden in the forest. We could not capture

the full beauty of falls - we tried different angles - unless we had trekked  Picture - 1

 Picture - 2

Wild flowers!!!

We did not do complete Charmadi and did only half of it.

Reluctantly, we took a U turn to go towards Kalasa

We were in for another treat immediately after Balur estate

The scenery after crossing the bridge on Bhadra river, Awesome!!

The Road to Kalasa has some great valley views, here is one!!

Bhadra is full roar - I

Valley views on the way to Sringeri -I

Valley views on the way to Sringeri -II

Bhadra is full roar forms a beautiful waterfalls

Some more water falls on the way.

These were some of the beautiful falls we had seen, falling in layers.

Valley views on the way to Sringeri -III

Valley views on the way to Sringeri -IV

Valley views on the way to Sringeri -V

This was the best of the lot!! It had height and volume

As we drove to Agumbe from Sringeri, we spotted this lovely pond

A hamlet - Typical of Malnad, amidst greenery

Picture taken on Agumbe - Tirthahalli road.

The thick black clouds in the horizon and the greenery makes it a fantastic setting!!

The paddy field near Agumbe was like a picture post card

Kundadri was a revelation. Everytime you go this place, you will come back awestruck.

The wind, the mist and the feeling of floating in the clouds!!

Take a look at these pics from the sky - virtually!! - Picture I

Picture - 2

Picture - 3

Picture - 4

The whole place was misty. Sun was playing hide and seek.

We had to wait for moments when the place down below got lit up to take these pictures

Like these bright moments!

Some more pictures from the top.

These wild flowers were eye candy!

As we left Tirthahalli, we crossed Tunga which was roaring to glory!

It was a refreshing drive in the rain, soaking ourselves in nature at its best. Go for it when it is raining. We came back refreshed and rejuvenated!! In every true sense. Now it is your turn!

Travel tips

a) Make Chikmagalur or Tirthahalli as base to explore Malnad. Good homestay options are available. Chikmagalur also has high end stay options in Taj group of Hotels and Serai by Coffee day.

For home stay options in Malnad Check out in http://www.travelmalnad.com/

b) Chikmagalur is 250 KMs from Bangalore and Tirthahalli is 330 KMs.

c) Excellent bus connections are available to both places. If you dont want to drive, then take a bus and hire a cab to explore locally.

d) Bangalore - Shimoga overnight train is another excellent option for Tirthahalli. Most homestays in Tirthahalli will arrange vehicle for pick up at railway station.

For a detailed itinerary for exploring Malnad in Monsoons, please click this link

Monsoon in Western Ghats - An Itinerary to experience it!

Glossary

Malnad - Western Ghats (mountainous) region in the Southern state of Karnataka in India

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